Gymkhana is an old
Anglo-Indian word meaning a country fair. It was an annual event in Australian bush
communities – food stalls and shooting galleries and the like outside an arena
where horsemanship was shown off and polo was played.
The polo ground was a far cry from
the clipped lawns of Windsor Great Park, the home of the game in England. There,
the beau monde bring their stables of thoroughbreds and Argentinians,
and sit around sipping Pimm’s, and a spectacular festival it is. At Hannaford,
sheep farmers and their station-hands charged up and down on work-horses
trained to keep sheep in a bunch, and tossed down gallons of beer that were tossed
up again in due course.
One year, two station-hands got into
a fight over a girl who had been in my class at school; one of them forced
strychnine down the throat of his rival, and sat on his head until he died. The
patrons of Windsor Great Park would never have countenanced such behaviour.
They kept the riff-raff out altogether, and it was only as the friend of a
friend that I was there. I put on the poshest English accent I could manage,
and didn’t mention The Geebung Polo Club.
The Geebung Polo Club was a
fictional up-country bush club invented by Banjo Paterson, Australian poetry’s
answer to Lord Tennyson. The poem was not quite The Man from Snowy River,
but equally dramatic, in its way:
They waddied one another till the
plain was strewn with dead,
While the score was kept so even that they
neither got ahead.
And the Cuff and Collar captain, when he
tumbled off to die,
Was the last surviving player - so the
game was called a tie.
The Windsor polo was not the only
horsey event that I ever attended in England. Besides the racing at Chepstow
with local friends, there was “the following of the hounds”. My cousin Lucy
introduced David and me to that during our visit to the village where my
English grandfather was born and raised. (David was my chum from the boat over,
immortalized – in my mind – in the “two tuppennies” story told in my blog A
cupful of cold water in July 2013.)
Lucy’s piercingly loud voice made her famous around Bath as a deranged follower of the hounds at the local hunts, and she dragged us excitedly from fence to fence in borrowed Wellies watching one of the local “hunts” do its thing.
Lucy’s piercingly loud voice made her famous around Bath as a deranged follower of the hounds at the local hunts, and she dragged us excitedly from fence to fence in borrowed Wellies watching one of the local “hunts” do its thing.
Following the hounds is a grand old
English tradition, and a surprisingly democratic one. Peasants, townsfolk and
sundry others wade through the mud in a mad dash to see the horse-owning gentry
and nouveau riche gallop up and down pretending to care whether their
dogs caught and killed a fox or not. After the fox eventually meets its doom, all
the survivors retire to their cars and eat picnics. Jolly good fun or incredibly
boring, according to taste.
But it has always been flat-racing
that captured Australians’ hearts, not any other horsey events. Champion horses
became household words, and jockeys, folk-heroes. “You’re better stayers than Tulloch”,
the father of a friend grumbled one night when we overstayed our welcome – Tulloch
being a horse that had led the field from start to finish for the whole two
miles of the Melbourne Cup a few years before.
A friend of my Dad’s took me aside at a party and confidentially warned me against returning via the USA on my upcoming round-the-world trip. “The thing is, you can’t trust the Yanks, Gordon. The bastards killed Phar Lap, remember.” As indeed they had, in 1932, in California where the legendary horse (yes, another Melbourne Cup winner) was in training to show the American horses how to race.
Australian doctors today are still
debating who could have fed him the arsenic.